Evergreen Travels
Written by the guides who run the trips

Travel Guides

The things we end up saying on every phone call, written down once. No fluff, no affiliate links.

Six things decide how a Bhutan trip goes: the permit and the Sustainable Development Fee, the month you pick, how much cash you carry, the altitude, what you wear into a temple, and what is in your bag. Each has a full guide below.

Entry

Permits, visas and the SDF

What you actually need to enter Bhutan, and what it costs.

  • Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals need a permit, not a visa. We process it at Phuentsholing or Paro.
  • Carry a passport valid six months, or a Voter ID card, plus two passport photographs.
  • All other nationalities need a visa arranged through a licensed operator before travel.
  • The Sustainable Development Fee is charged per person per night and is billed separately from the tour cost.

Read the full guide

Timing

When to go

The seasons behave very differently at 300 m and at 3,900 m.

  • March–May: rhododendron in flower, warm valleys, occasional afternoon haze.
  • September–November: the sharpest mountain views of the year and the biggest tsechu festivals.
  • December–February: cold and very clear; the only window for black-necked cranes in Phobjikha.
  • June–August: monsoon. Green, cheap, and the passes can close for a morning at a time.

Read the full guide

Money

Cash, cards and the SDF

Bhutan is more cash-driven than most visitors expect.

  • Ngultrum is pegged 1:1 to the Indian rupee, and INR is accepted almost everywhere (₹500 and ₹2,000 notes can be refused).
  • Cards work in Thimphu and Paro hotels; assume cash everywhere else.
  • ATMs exist but are unreliable outside the two main towns — draw what you need in Thimphu.

Read the full guide

Health

Altitude and fitness

Nothing on our standard routes is technical, but the numbers are real.

  • Thimphu sits at 2,320 m, Phobjikha at 3,000 m, Chele La at 3,988 m.
  • The Tiger’s Nest is a 900 m ascent over about 4 km each way; four to five hours return at a steady pace.
  • Drink more water than feels necessary on the first two days and skip alcohol the night before a pass.

Read the full guide

Respect

Temple etiquette

Bhutan is relaxed about most things and firm about a few.

  • Long trousers and covered shoulders inside every dzong and lhakhang; hats and shoes come off.
  • No photography inside temple buildings — outside is almost always fine.
  • Walk clockwise around chortens, mani walls and prayer wheels.
  • Smoking in public is illegal, and tobacco is not sold in the country.

Read the full guide

Kit

What to pack

Layers, and better shoes than you think you need.

  • A warm mid-layer even in summer — the passes are cold at any time of year.
  • Broken-in walking shoes with grip for the Taktsang path.
  • Sunscreen and sunglasses; the UV at 3,000 m is unforgiving.
  • A power bank. Village electricity is real but not guaranteed.

Read the full guide

Common Questions

Do Indian nationals need a visa for Bhutan?

No visa is required. Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals travel on a permit issued at Phuentsholing or Paro, and we handle the paperwork for you. Bring a valid passport or a Voter ID card, plus passport photographs.

What is the Sustainable Development Fee?

The SDF is a nightly levy the Bhutanese government charges every visitor; it funds free healthcare, education and forest conservation. For Indian nationals it is currently ₹1,200 per adult per night and ₹600 per child. It is billed separately from the tour cost.

When is the best time to visit Bhutan?

Spring (March to May) for rhododendron and clear valleys, and autumn (September to November) for the sharpest mountain views and the biggest tsechu festivals. Winter is cold but very clear, and it is the only season for the black-necked cranes in Phobjikha. Monsoon runs June to August.

How hard is the walk to the Tiger’s Nest?

It is a 900 m ascent over roughly 4 km each way, on a well-made path with a cafeteria at the halfway point. Most reasonably fit people manage it in four to five hours return. Ponies are available for the first half of the climb.

Can the itinerary be changed?

Yes. Every route on this site is a starting point. Tell us how long you have, what you care about, and who is travelling, and we will rebuild it around that.

Still have a question?

Ask us anything about Bhutan, even if you never book. We would rather you arrive well prepared.

Talk to a Bhutan specialist